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Turbo Install

Advise & tips on how to install your Big CC turbo System. Any questions please call our tech line on 01189 776755. International customers please call 0044 1189 776755. This advice line is for Big CC Customers only as we are not responsible for other branded systems.

Please note the Big CC Hybrid Turbo System is sold on the basis of being a professional dealer install only. It requires a competent garage with known successful experience on turbo installations to fit these units. We will assist any individual or any dealer / garage to overcome their technical issues without any problems nationally or internationally as it is our interest to ensure your success. Please however be aware the owner of the bike is the project manager of the bike & there choice of dealer to install the system is part of that management. Do not let some one on your bike that has not got the tools or abilty to make it a success. Your machine should not be someone elses experiment in getting right. A list of world wide approved installers can found at the bottom of the page.

Please be aware though we are a 3 to 4 man workshop business & time is a valuable commodity. Instructions on basic Big CC Universal turbo install is found here. Any electrronics supplied with the kit will have enclosed discs or paperwork such as Motec or KMS etc. 

Please check off your parts for content & ensure all parts are correct . Any shortfall please let us know & we can sort asap. We are but human & each kit has over 100 different suppliers to be insourced for. Now lets get started...


Even though you have bought a kit there will be the need for some simple welded jobs to be done when the kit is being installed. These may include the fuel out & return fittings to the fuel tank or plate, the oil drain fitting onto the sump, the radiator for fan relocation etc

Please ensure all parts are thoroughly cleaned out in the pipes & exhaust so no damge can occur from grit or metal filings etc. It is the installers responsibility to check all parts!

Please dummy fit all parts together & ensure snug fitting etc. Turbo housings may need to be rotated to align & retightened, centre cartridges may need to be aligned for correct turbo oil drainage  depending on your bikes stance etc.

Be prepared to bastardize some cheap ring spanners for those exhaust header bolts that are difficult to get into. It is better to assemble the front section as a whole & fit up to the engine. Use heat proof sealant on mating surfaces not gaskets except the wastegate inlet flange. Use spring washers where possible. On Hayabusa engines clearancing will be required of the steel oil pipe up to the front of the engine. This is done by sawing off the casting mark near the case joint & pushing gently the oil pipe into its recess. Dont crease it! On ZX14 Casting clearance is also necessary to get the turbo to fit tight.

Be prepared to drill holes accordingly or modify accordingly your bike. It is required for the height of the turbo to drain verses the tightness of the radiator to fit etc.

Plenum straps on Hayabusa you need to shave the rear left engine mount casting to slide the plenum strap into place over the bolt hole. On GSXR1000's you need to mark & drill the inside frame & insert rivet screw bosses for the plenum straps. This will need dummying up of the throttle bodies.

Big Kawasaki's like ZX12R & ZX14R will need the frame up to .8bar screw & gluing or for power over that professionally welding shut & sealed accordingly. It is a one way trip once done & all effort should be made to locate all the vent holes of the frames & relocate the case breather holes etc.  

Your fuel tank will need welding work doing to the underside for dash 8 outlet & dash 6 return. We do not use bulkhead fittings as we believe if knocked they can become dangerous & leak. Fluid on your back tyre is not a good thing. Purging the tank is important & it should be left to vent for several days & a good trick is to pump exhaust fumes through it to force out the dangerous fuel fumes if in a hurry or do as well to be safe. Most modern fuel tanks have an internal pump with a detachable base that can be modified such as GSXR1000 & later Hayabusa's. Pictures are available of how we modify this detachable bases with welded dash 8 & 6 bosses. These bases can also be shortened up to offer additional under tank room.

 Your sump will also need to be welded with an oil return fitting. Normally dash 10. Be careful with some poor quality cast sumps in the welding process & preparation. Ensure the oil drain is in a down ward motion into the sump & dont be a dumass & weld next to the gasket face as you will not get it to seal.

Radiators will need to be modified where required. For example the Hayabusa & the GSXR requires the fan to be relocated & the Hayabusa the fan switch. Every effort is made in our design & fabrication to get the turbo in as tight to the engine as possible in its fitment. On GSXR1000's with the inverted turbo you can gain extra clearance simply by removing the lowest rung of fins near the turbo. Welding simple fan extension brackets to move it over is very simple but please ensure once it is relocated that you test the fans rotation.

Where radiators are forced forwards it may be required to extend the radiator outlets to meet to the silicone pipes. Zx12R & GSXR1000 will both need rad extensions to go around the filter or the dumps accordingly.

Tip: If you relocaste the fan switch to the water in side of the radiator it will turn the fan on earlier & help keep it cooler.     


All Big CC Fuel systems will go as follows Dash 8 fuel tank outlet to FUEL FILTER to the FUEL PUMP to the FUEL RAIL to the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR returning back to the TANK dash 6. Some systems will T piece before the fuel rail & return to the Regulator where a system is dead heading the rail. Tip, the direct run of the T should be to the rail & the odd should be to the regulator.

Fuel filters do have direction flow indicated on them. Some fittings that go into the cannister filters may need to be trimmed so avoid bottoming out. In racing applications you can use a cone drill in the back of the fittings to enhance the flow charecteristics.

When fitting injectors apply a fuel friendly grease to the seals & ease them into place including any top hats that may be required. The seals from your old injectors can be gently massaged onto the new ones. Some injectors will need the seals swapping out in this manner 

Many systems come with 680cc Siemens Injectors that will need the throttle body injector holes drilling with a 10.5mm drill so the injector seats on its rubber seal & not on its metal. On less common systems you may need to work the injectors & rail with some ingenuity if we dont have a direct solution. If stuck then ship us your throttle bodies & we will adapt them for you as required. A good tip is to look at the injectors from the inside & ensure the heads all look central & non are misaligned. When fitting injector hats they can often be supported by E clips slidden into place.

Aftermarket injectors will need replacement injector connectors, they are included

The layout of the fuel system is down to the bike builder. We have suggested locations but ultimately it is down to the builder / installer to determine the best location. We try where possible to run the fuel filter in the seat units on a 180deg fitting to go forward onto the pump bolted to the throttle bodies or the engine bay inner frame wall. This not only allows a degree of cooling of the fuel way from the engine bay but also stops pipes being kinked from being crammed under the tank. Be aware the fuel pumps we supply will pull fuel 4 feet off the ground so height is not an issue to fuel level.  

Kinking of fuel pipes is one of the most common causes of issues & is simply a bad thought out installation. Think about the movement of the fuel tank being lifted  & how the pipes can be placed to allow it up & down without kinking. A tip is to use spiral spring over the pipes where tight bends are needed. On hayabusa's the fuel pump form a natural under & over curveture for the pipes to go onto the tank. Photo explains. On GSXR1000's having the fuel pressure regulator mounted forwards can also give an easy run back onto the tank.


A Ball bearing turbochargers will have a small restrictor fitting in the top of the turbocharger of approx 1.5mm. This can be fine tuned according to each engines oil pressure. Turbo drain is normally dash 10 size for gravity or dash 8 or 6 if mechanical. Electric oil drain may be down to dash 4. If a Hayabusa you must remove the oil cooler when fitting all but the stealth kit & in doing so you must remove the grub screw behind the oil filter else oil pressure drops. If you dont a minor issue called the engine blowing up occurs. Very messy & not recommeded so please remove. On GSXR1000's you must either relocate the cooler (not inc in the kit) or link the pipes together or fit a Mocal oil water exchanger that would also link the pipes. Alternatively internal engine work for grub screw removal can be done (motor strip) Blocking off the oil cooler pipes will again reduce oil pressure & blow up your motor. Again not recommended.  

 Be aware of engine oil level to the turbo impeller shaft height. The oil level must be below the shaft height by at least an inch otherwise it will leak oil into the turbo. ball bearing turbos do not have seals! Lowering the front of the bike or lifting the rear of the bike can affect this as can putting the bike on a paddock stand. Use a tape measure to test sight glass height to impeller shaft height. Get it right. Do not restrict the crankcase breather as excess case pressure will cause the turbo to smoke like a bastard. Im fed up of getting killed in the dyno room by some clown that has restricted his crankcase breather. If anything try & improve the crankcase breathing system not restrict it. A resurculating oil catch tank which is duly also vented is the way to go  for the clever installer.


The bikes standard map sesnor on most bikes must not detect boost pressure otherwise it can flip out & cause a misfire - F1 light on situation. This map sensor is fitted to all throttle bodies & easy to locate. You will need to fit the one way check valves to protect it from seeing boost. These are fitted via T pieces & are used to bleed off boost while not allowing to suck inwards. (so test which way round they go). Two suffice & most bikes such as Busa have one anyway, (lil red black thingy)

As that IAP map sensor is designed to loose boost it is important that YOU DO NOT fit any boost relating bits to it its system of vac pipes.

The lower wastegate pipe should be connected to the plenum airbox. This pipe is vital & if it fails your engine will fail & you will have a big scarey moment with 60psi of boost hitting your bike. Ensure it is secure & not liable to melt against the header pipes. TIP. You can dismantle the wastegate & rotate the housing to move its outlet position. 

The BOV (dump valve) can feed off one throttle body vac spigot & I also suggest using it for a boost gauge as both these items are not life endeering.  

The fuel pressure regulator should have its own dedicated Vac pipe ideally.

Aftermarket map sensors ideally should feed off a min of two cylinders for good signal strength.

Two stage boost pipes should T from the wastegate lower pipe & reconnect to the top of the gate.


Yes you will have to. Please take care in cutting panels & take your time. Avoid cutting too close to screw joints & edges. Take into account the fairing movement under wind speed as it pushes fairings back. Do a bit at a time & keep offering up for accuracy. A white marker & an airsaw are ideal. If your the customer dont expect a warranty when someone cuts your panels unless you wish to do it. Its so easy to slip & mark a panel.


All bikes will require at least a Power Commander in fuelling. The 8 injector bikes are supplied with a secondary fuelling computer. This will hook up to Throttle position, a map sensor, the top injectors & a map sensor connector & finally a trigger wire. A universal harness is enclosed & just needs trimming & terminating. Please be aware the trigger wire can be from a coil wire (ECU end better) a injector wire or even a tach wire. It is important to get a good connection as RF interference is common on bikes & can lead to poor tacho signal for the computer thus causing incorrect fuelling. The unit has different filter levels & tacho signal inputs accordingly to suit differing coil combinations. Please avoid putting the box near the reg rectifier or other areas of RF interference & shield the wires where possible. Do not use shite blue or red spade & bullet connectors. Be professional & thorough in the install.

There is also an injector black magic load box (with wiring diagram) that is designed to connect to the ECU top injector wires. Its purpose is to hide from the ECU the fact the injectors are being controlled elsewhere. Its fitting is vital to ensure no F1 light.

Fuel pumps will requre bigger fuel pump fuses. Put a 20 amp fuse in for bigger pumps. Some big power racing pumps may require you to source a bigger relay also.

Fuel tank wires will need to be seperated. With an external pump the pump wires will need to be spliced away from the tank & onto the pump. Keep intact the fuel level sender wires. Without sounding like a burk the pump & its regulator gets removed accordingly, leave the plastic assembly there to support the fuel sender.


We deliberately do not supply mapping. Shitbust. The reason why is because people believe they can simply take their bike out on the road & ride it round & bed their engine in before mapping it eventually or not map it at all. This is very prevailalnt in the USA where there are large distances to dyno centres etc. Do not do it if you are doing DIY! You will blow it up. No mapping means you have to take it to the dyno & it is their responsibility to not only map your bike correctly but they should also wish to check the install to be certain it is safe to dyno. If they dont then be wary as they are not being responsible. Simply put you cannot ride an untuned turbo bike on the road unless you want to destroy it.

The bike should not be tuned by inexperienced turbo bike dyno operators. To do so invites failure, however here are some guidelines. The bike boosts at different rpms at different throttle positions. Under boost set the fuelling to be between 11.5 & 11.8 A/F. Off boost the bike can be at 13.2:1 A/F. Ramp that a/f down gradually onto the desired mixture. If you are in a hotter climate then richen closer to the 11:5.

A tip for dyno operators. On stage 1 kits once the bike is checked go straight to full boost. There is no point in mapping anything else if the fuelling is not there at 100% throttle. So getting there last means you have wasted your time & need to reconfigure your fuel pressure or FMU etc. Adjsuting the FMU will determine the rise in fuel pressure so keep a gauge hooked in to monitor it.

Most FMU bikes we start with a tickover psi of 55psi & map backwards. This reduces the numbers needed  to add on. On big injector bikes running on the road a lower pressure can be desirable especially on Hayabusa's where start up flooding can occur. On racing applications please consult me with your power expectations & given injector sizing so that I can best advise on fuel pressures to suit. Bear in mind altering the fuel pressure alters the whole map so its important to get right early on in tuning. 8 injector set ups with 1:1 regulators where the lower injectors are alone off boost can also be set at 55psi as a good starting point. 

On Stage 1 kits knowing the injector duty cycle at peak is important, ask the dyno operator what it is so you know that he has paid attention to it. 100% injector duty cycle is a fail & dangerous. He needs to keep an eye on the A/F while feeling the boost level & engine rpm & checking the injector duty cycle. All on a new build. Ya cant give it to a numpty 

Do not hold bikes under high load on high boost on the dyno, it will either shit them or burn down the clutches, sweeping passes with light load if any for boost and load control for low rpm. 

Gap the spark plugs at 18 thou. It will give a stronger spark. Do not use Iridium shite bollox plugs. They glow easier under heat & promote detonation. For example a Gen 2 Busa stick CR9E into the motor at 18thou plug gaps.

Bikes with secondary fuelling computer we will send the mapping to the dyno centre or installers as long as they are aware the responsibilty is on them for accuraste A/F

Do not exceed the engine strength with boost pressure. For example a GSXR1000 on stock rods we would not push even 10psi in it.

Check for boost creep while dynoing. If excessive creep is occuring (more than 2psi) then you may need to hand port the wastegate / turbo housing or send back for refabrication. At which point I will shoot someone. Call us & we will advise.

Most engines will not need timing pulling under 1 bar of boost.

The maximum boost for non intercooled or chargecooled applications is 12 psi of boost on Super unleaded fuel. Typically on a Hayabusa this is 320 to 340hp. Levels above this should be using race fuel. Chargecooled engines can go to 14 to 16psi depending on efficiency. Do not hang out the high boost on petrol but rather squirt it when needed.

The boost usable on the engine obviously is dependant on the static compression ratio the engine is built to. For example a stock Hayabusa at 11:1 compression will not allow more than 7 psi safely due to the dynamic compression ratio. A low comp Busa engine can use much more boost. Therefore the dyno operator needs to have the compression information on the build & should ask for it if he has his wits with him.

Any form of motorsport such as drag racing or land speed racing should always use race fuel. There is no point in risking engines even on low boost levels. As soon as you are asking how far or much is far enough you have just asked the wrong question. Always err on safety on the road.  

 Please note various expletives have been put into the above wording to help not opnly humour'ize the instructions but add importance to doing the job correctly. Big CC Racing recommnded installers & suppliers are below with proven track records of successful installations. Talk to them.

I will slowly add photos to the above to help digestion. All the best & thank you for the purchase.



Big CC racing

  • USA Installers
    • Orient ExPress Racing. NY 001 631 231 9556
    • HTP Performance  VA 001 804 340 0800
    • Lee's Cycle Shop TN 001 423 587 1114
    • Champion Cycle Ontario Cananda 001 416 658 7878


  • Europe Installers
    • MA Motorcycles Malta 00356 2149 1790
    • K & M Racing Cyprus 00357 2466 1055
    • Taqi Motorsports Kuwait  00965 992 99699
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